About Uluru is the guy who runs the one-hour photo shop in Yulara. Every day he must see thousands of amateur shots of the rock, only stopping to wonder if it's his chemicals or nature that's making it change colour. This has to be the one spot in the country deserving a pilgrimage by all Australians, yet the majority of tourists are international. It's more than an attraction and icon, it's an experience. It is the largest monolith (single rock) on earth, standing 350 metres above the desert floor with a base perimeter of 9.4 kilometres. And that is just the third above ground.

It's the spirituality, however, that makes it truly special. The Rock itself is not a sacred site to the local Anangu people, but many parts of it are. A guided tour of the base is highly recommended and far more rewarding than a climb to the top,just because it's there? You will discover its raw beauty, striking colours and learn of its special place in Aboriginal legend. If there's a bit of wind you may also discover a few smashed cameras, sunglasses and hats that have dropped from above!

And remember, as a visitor to respect the landlord.

Uluru has a special place in the Anangu's stories of creation (Tjukurpa), These stories are related by local guides and in displays at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre, along with audiovisual presentations of the history of the park and how it is managed. The centre also operates Maruka Arts and Crafts, an Aboriginal co-operative displaying and selling the works of more than 800 traditional artists from Central and Western Australia.

Kata Tjuta means many heads?in the Anangu language and is a spectacular group of 36 massive red rock outcrops separated by narrow valleys about 50 kilometres from Uluru. The domes surround Mount Olga, which rises more than 1000 metres above the desert floor and was named after a Spanish Queen.

Many visitors find The Olgas even more inspiring than Ayers Rock. There are walks ranging from an hour to five hours through the gorges and around the outcrops, though restrictions apply when temperatures over 36 degrees C are forecast. The Valley of the Winds tour is arguably the best.

One man-made must?is a Sounds of Silence dinner. This award-winning attraction has proved so popular it now has four different desert locations. It's one of those rare, well-oiled attractions that runs like clockwork, yet you never feel rushed or organised. Apart from the dinner (bush tucker is part of the selection) and wine under the stars, there's a resident astronomer with a laser pointer to guide you through the impressive heavens. Mind you, you can't always pick your dining companions. An American tourist with a loud voice and matching shirt, exclaimed, Hey, there's only two left!?and took the remaining two nibblies from a plate. The waiter smiled and informed him that more were on their way, to which the American replied, Well that's more like it,?and put the two in his hand back on the plate.

Kings Canyon is simply a most spectacular natural amphitheatre with sheer 100-metre to 200-metre rock walls dropping away to the valley below. Here, Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, danced along the cliff tops and the Qantas choir stood and sang I Still Call Australia Home. There's a resort you can stay at, you can take a bus tour and scenic helicopter flights operate. It's best explored via the Rim Walk of Kings Canyon (6 kilometres) which takes in the prehistoric, lush Garden of Eden, the unusual rock formations of the Lost City and the Southern Wall Lookout for views of the whole gorge and a waterfall if the creek is in flood.

Australia Travel