Container grown plants

Just about any plant may be grown in a container throughout it's entire life. This is true whether the plant is classified as a house plant, a perennial, an annual, shrub or tree.
Growing your plants in containers provides you with a few options that are unavailable to permanent plantings. The ability to move the containers around is perhaps the biggest advantage. As the seasons and the sun's position changes, you can move your plant to a sunnier or shady spot to fit the cultural needs of the plant. You will also be able to move plants into the 'limelight' when they come into bloom, or into the background somewhere when they are finished. You will also be able to grow acid loving plants in an area of alkaline soil and vice versa. Remember though, that when you are growing plants in pots or planters, that those plants are much more dependent on you to provide their necessities in life. They are in a limited amount of soil, with their roots restricted, and exposed to the elements far more than if they were field grown. It is important for the plant's health that pay close attention to watering and feeding requirements of the plant. Plants in containers will dry out much sooner and need watering more often. To determine when the plant needs watering, stick your finger down into the soil and if is dry water the plant thoroughly. Because frequent watering will wash the plant food out of the soil, and the plant will utilize the limited soil nutrients they will be depleted much more rapidly, so a regular feeding program should be established according to the type of plant. During the growing season, either a slow release type plant food should be used or a soluble complete fertilizer should be used every two weeks. ALWAYS follow the manufacturers recommendations.

Choosing your container

Just about anything that will hold soil may be used as a planter. Ideally, the pot should have a diameter equal to 1/3 to 1/2 the height of the plant. Anything you use, though should have holes drilled in the bottom to allow the surplus water to drain away from the soil. The biggest cause of death to container grown plants is overwatering and consequent drowning. If it impossible to drill the holes you can add a layer of gravel below the soil, but watering must be monitored more closely. It may be more appropriate to put your plant into a regular pot and then place it inside your decorative planter. If you are building a planter using wood, use rot resistant wood such as redwood or cedar, and coat the inside with waterproof paint.

The growing medium

The choice of growing medium is extremely important. It must have the capability of holding water, but it must also be porous and drain easily. I prefer to use commercial potting mixes. There are many available, but they can vary a lot in quality, so be prepared to add organic materials such as compost or peat moss for moisture retention and course builders sand for drainage.The use of garden soil should be avoided, because of the risk of insect infestations and soil borne diseases and fungi, but if you need a large quantity of mix and using bagged potting soil is cost prohibitive you can create your own mix. A good container mix should consist of one part of rich loam, one part course sand or perlite, and one part peat moss, compost, or other organic matter (bark, etc.) If you are growing acid loving plants such as Rhododendrons, Azaleas or Heathers the mix should contain two parts peat moss instead of one.

Repotting

Sooner or later, the roots of a plant growing in a container will fill all of the available space and become rootbound. when this happens, the growth of the plant slows and eventually stops altogether. The solution is to repot your plant into a larger container. It is better transplant to one size larger than the pot in which the plant was previously grown, rather than a jump to a very large pot to accommodate a small plant.Slow-growing plants may require repotting every two to three years, while faster growing plants should be repotted annually.
These instructions are written from the standpoint of a plant which is growing in a standard pot. If your container is large or awkward you will have to adapt them to fit your needs. For instance, tapping the outside of a container with a trowel handle will have the same effect as tapping the rim of the pot against a table. You may have to lay the planter on its side and slide the planter away from the plant rather than inverting it. You get the idea......

Water the plant thoroughly several hours before removing it from the container. This will help to remove the roots from the planter more easily, and reduce transplant shock. Invert the pot holding your hand on the potting mix so the base of the plant is between the index and middle fingers. Tap the rim of the pot on the edge of a table until the root ball slides out of the container. Never pull on the stem of the plant to remove it, rather continue tapping or rolling the pot until until the roots slide out on their own. Sometimes you can force the plant from the pot using water pressure from a hose held tightly against the drain hole. In extreme cases it may be necessary to cut or break the pot to release the roots.

When the roots grew out and reached the pot, they turned and began growing back into the ball. Once they are part of the mass it is hard for them to reverse direction again. It is necessary to give them a little help to get going on the right track again. Use your finger tips to carefully loosen the roots at the base and along the side of the root ball to allow them to grow into the new soil. If the root ball is extremely knotted and tight, it may be advisable to use a sharp knife and cut some of the entangled roots to separate them by making a 1/8 to 1/4 slice down the side of the root ball or gently, but forcibly separate the base of the ball. Use care not to damage any main 'tap' roots. Before repotting, prune off any dead or damaged roots.

Place a small piece of broken clay pot over any drainage holes in the new planter to keep soil from draining through the hole. If there are no drainage holes, add an inch or two of clean gravel to the bottom of the planter. Add potting mix into the container to a point that when the root ball is set in, it will come to within an inch of the top of the pot. Gently set the plant into the container, center it and face it in the direction which shows off it's beauty. Be certain it is standing straight and begin adding potting mix around the root ball, tamping it lightly until you have filled the gaps and slightly covered the top. Be sure to leave at least 3/4 of an inch at the top of the pot for watering. Water the plant well to get good soil contact with the roots (air pockets can lead to problems). Do not water again until the soil is almost dry.

Help your plant to avoid transplant shock, by gradually bringing it back into full light rather than immediately putting it into full sun. Keep it in a warm area for a few days (NOT HOT). Adding a soluble transplant fertilizer to the water will help the roots to recover and begin growing again sooner.

Plants Specific Need